Hi all. I have had nothing but issues, since upgrading to Windows 10 from Windows 8 (64).
The installation within of itself was horrible.
I got the continual flash on the screen, until I was able to get it into safe mode and recovered it.
Then made sure drivers were updated.
However, I did not upgrade my BIOs, from the information I had seen from MSFT.
Didnt think twice, since they said if you were upgrading from 8 or 8.1 that should not be an issue.
The system was running stable, after I did those fixes.
About 1 week ago, after a MSFT Windows automatic patch push, My monitor started not to respond during boot up. Ran some basic troubleshooting for the monitor (Ie: check plugs, check cables, check Video card).
They all seemed to work fine and my system booted up normal.
The very next day, cold booted again and monitor did same thing, it was not getting any signal from the computer.
Went through the checks, after a little bit of a delay the system finally booted.
I checked my BIOs settings, which were all set up normally.
I locked my computer after that and did not turn off the system, the next morning, my monitor was unresponsive.
I re-checked monitor, cables and even replaced the video card. Everything is good except no signal to my monitor.
I disconnected all hardware except the video card and motherboard, to see if it was an issue with my power.
I took out out the CMOS battery and also disconnected power to the motherboard for about 2 hours, to try and reset the BIOs to factory.
No luck.
This leaves me with 2 things left: a) Corrupted BIOs, not loading my drivers, or b) motherboard went bad.
Going to try a bootable USB BIOs next.
I have seen several posts about issues similar to this after upgrading to WIndows 10. This is horrible.
In addition to what I have done above, is there anything else, I can do to try and recover my new doorstopper and restor it to a PC liek it shoudl be?
Do you believe that the Windows 10 upgrade corrupted your BIOS, or otherwise damaged your hardware? That would be unusual.
What do you mean by "bootable USB BIOS"? There are a variety of things you can put on a USB device, including a DOS environment for doing a BIOS update, but "USB BIOS" means nothing to me.
When you "disconnected all hardware except the video card and motherboard" did you also disconnect the hard drive and the opticals? I once fried an internal Zip 100 drive, and the PC wouldn't boot with it attached. (It was probably an IDE device, though. Long time ago.)
I'd like to blame Microsoft for your troubles, but I just don't see it.
my lenovo thinkpad edge did the exact same thing. it ran great for about a week maybe 2. was working fine, i rebooted, the screen flickered, then nothing. the system will not post. I started pulling parts, hoping to at least get an error beep or message, but nothing. power is getting to the board. I tried resetting the bios by pulling the internal battery, still nothing. this thing worked great for 3 years up until this happened. So i don't think this is a coincidence. I ended up buying another windows 7 pro laptop, just I can research the issue. a lot of people are actually having this issue a crossed the web, but usually pulling resetting the BIOS works, just did not work for me.
I just had this issue on a Win 7 PC I worked on 2 days ago. I pulled the battery on the MB and also pulled the power cord from the computer for about 30 seconds. This will reset the BIOS. Put battery back in and turn the system on. Make sure you press the DEL key or whatever key you need to press to get into the BIOS. You don't mention in your specs if you have a SATA HDD or not. But the system I worked on did. As you set up the BIOS pay attention to the setting for HDD. Most BIOS will reset this back to IDE Mode. Set it to AHCI. Save settings and reboot.
The system I worked on for some reason would show absolutely nothing on the monitor until I changed BIOS HDD setting to AHCI. I changed it back to IDE Mode a few times to test and every time it would go back to a black screen on the monitor. Pulling battery and setting HDD back to AHCI worked every time. Hope this works for you.
I just sent my motherboard to Gigabyte for this! I'll bet they load a new Bios into the motherboard and ship it back. I had a clean install too.
